After spending a little time touring Lutherstadt, Mark and KP & JoJo went on the next leg of the tour, a train to Dresden. Dresden is located in what used to be East Germany and was the Saxony region of Germany even before that. In contrast to Prague (which the trio will visit later), which was spared during WWII bombing, Dresden bore the brunt of a significant, sustained and controversial air attack near the end of the war. The city was being used as a refuge for POWs, refugees and retreating Germans at the time it was attacked, creating a controversy over the propriety of such action. (The events of this chapter of the war are recounted in the Kurt Vonnegut's classic Slaughterhouse-Five, based on his experiences as a POW in Dresden.)
The current city bares some scars of the war and the post-war period, but you kind of have to look for them. Modern Dresden is a bustling, lively and fast-growing city. Our trio decided to see a few of the "off the beaten path" sights, so they took a tour led by a crazy guy.
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| Sorry, folks, he is not sticking a cork in it. Instead KP demonstrates the edible nature of the welcome drink. |
"Crazy," in this instance, is not intended to be an insult. I think our guide introduced himself as a crazy guy, in fact. Then he promised to show us the "real Dresden" - which apparently means the real bars and pubs of Dresden - and tell us the history of his city from his point of view. First stop - politics. At a pub overlooking a busy street, the group piled into a booth and the server brought everyone a "welcome drink." This was minty and served in an edible, shot glass-sized ice cream cone coated with chocolate (see KP in the photo above). Pretty tasty. Then, when everyone had ordered an appropriate German beer (not sure what made them appropriate other than approval from the bar keep), our guide told us about a series of events about which he was incredibly passionate, although they could easily have never happened.
Apparently, after the communist regime left but before Germany reunified, there was a bit of time of uncertainty. Who was in charge? What is the law? These were valid questions since the government was not ... well, did it even exist at the time. To their credit, the German people did not fall into anarchy, although it appears our tour guide, at least, may have tried. According to him, he and his neighbors, having had enough of East German rule, declared independence. They drew up a map of their 6 or 8 block neighborhood, elected a king (not sure how that works) and declared independence as a "micro-nation" (not to be confused with "Micronesia," a group of islands in the Pacific Ocean). And this guy was pretty serious. He had a passport issued by the tourism minister (whose day job happened to be the bartender at the very bar we were sitting in at the time) and a flag of his nation (which looked a lot like the German flag, but with the smiling face of Mickey Mouse in the center of it). Seems legit.
According to our guide, the 'independent nation of his neighborhood' puts on a big party every year which is attended by hundreds of thousands of revelers. Last year they even invited the governor of Saxony (or something like that). The provincial governor responded to the effect of (1) what you are doing is paramount to treason, and (2) have a nice party.
Live and let live, I guess. After talking politics, it was time for a little culture. Our guide took us to his favorite hang-out, Lebowski's, although we did not go inside.
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| Thirsty for a white Russian? Best prices in the city are right here. |
Apparently, the Coen Brothers' classic "The Big Lebowski" has struck a nerve in Dresden and this bar is one of the results. Patrons can show up at any time of the day or night and watch the film, as it is always showing (both in English and in German). The Dude abides.
Our night walk through Dresden took us to a few other pubs and bars, as well as to a few local landmarks of street artistry and the like. All in all, a fun experience.
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| "Mrs. Hippie? I knew her when it was just Miss." |
The next day, it was time for high culture. In their travels, Anne and Mark (and KP & JoJo as well) have often seen the cherubs pictured at the top of this post, but only in gift shops. It always seemed strange that they would appear at a museum gift shop, but not inside the actual museum. Once, Mark even asked the person at the gift shop if they were in the museum and she said no, and did not know where they actually were. Well, it turns out gift shop lady, that they are in Dresden. At the Zwinger, more specifically.
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| There they are, see them? It's like an old-school "Where's Waldo?" |
The Zwinger is a large complex of art and culture, which a couple of very nice art galleries included.
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| KP & JoJo tour the roof of the Zwinger. |
After a few hours of admiring the art collection at the Zwinger, the trio headed down to look at the other parts of the old city. One of the most striking visuals in Dresden is the Furstenzug (even writing that, I feel that I am mispronouncing it). This is a panoramic mural depicting the sovereign leaders of Saxony. It is over 100 meters in length (equivalent to about 2.3 miles, I think), made entirely of porcelain tiles and it includes all of your favorite Saxony sovereigns from Conrad to Dietrich, a handful of Friedrichs and even George. Come see them all!

One of the more interesting pieces of symbolism in the work is shown in the photo above. August II was on watch in Saxony when Luther hit the scene. August, apparently, was a strong catholic and opposed Luther's efforts. To commemorate this, the artist put the rose of Luther (an obvious symbol to those who know what to look for) under the foot of August's horse to symbolize his feelings about the reformation. Take that, Martin Luther!
While the trio was admiring the mural, a local news crew gave a report on it. To be honest, we expected a little better technology (seriously, those Philips flat screens just are not what they used to be). The content was pretty solid, though. Nice work, news team.
Last, but not least, the trio stopped by the big, honking church right in the middle of the city. Might as well stop by, after all, you can't act like you didn't see it.