Stayin Alive

On Friday, October 13, 1972, Uruguayan Air Force flight number 571 crashed in the Andes Mountains.  Twelve of the 45 passengers died in the crash and many others sustained significant injuries.  After 11 days huddled together in the fuselage, they heard over the radio that the search for them had been called off, as they were presumed to be dead.  A few days later, the survivors who were taking shelter in the severely damaged fuselage were hit with an avalanche and another 8 were killed.  Eventually, after 2 months in the freezing temperatures of the Andes mountains, 2 of the survivors decided to go for help in a last-ditch desperate attempt to survive.  Those two, Roberto Canessa and Nando Parado, found Chilean farmer Sergio Catalan 10 weeks after the crash.  The remaining 16 survivors were rescued on December 23, 1972.

Catalan (standing), Canessa (left) and Parado after the rescue.

Although incredible, this is a completely true story.  The survivors have written multiple books about it, and several movies and documentaries have tried to re-tell the story.  The 1993 American movie "Alive" was based on this story.

Among the passengers of the flight was the rugby team from the Old Christians Rugby Club on their way to play against a team from Chile.  Canessa and Parado were both members of the rugby club.

The men who survived this ordeal meet up every year on or near the anniversary of the accident.  Every year, the surviving rugby players line up and actually play rugby against the Chilean team they were going to meet in 1972, but never had the chance to play that year.  Now, although in their 60s, they still play the game as part of an annual tradition.  The current squads from the Old Christians Club and the Chilean club, as well as the children and friends of the survivors also play matches.  This year's reunion was held last weekend in Montevideo.

Somehow, Anne, Mark and the HBomb got invited to attend this year's reunion.  Roberto Canessa welcomed the trio to a rugby club on the outskirts of Montevideo.  (He is now a medical doctor and had done his rounds at the hospital prior to coming out to the rugby event.)  The festivities were well underway and Dr. Canessa informed us that he would not be playing this year because he was taking medication that prevented him from participating.  However, the other survivors, as well as the members of the Chilean club from the 1972 team were already on the pitch playing the match.  We headed over directly to catch some of the action.

After the survivors' match was completed, everyone gathered around for a memorial service.  The crowd was made up of the club members, the crash survivors and their families, as well as the visiting club from Chile.  They all knew one another and being invited into this intimate occasion was quite an honor.

Memorial Ceremony

Although they are well known in Uruguay, probably aptly described as celebrities (nearly all of them now do speeches from time to time), they were very welcoming and hospitable to us.  Upon their arrival, our trio was greeted by Dr. Canessa and the owner of the rugby club in English and Spanish, and immediately offered food and drinks.  They wanted so much to make us feel at home, they even let HBomb run some plays on the pitch.

HBomb contemplates the in bounds play.

After the match, everyone retired to the club house for a little relaxation, some parilla (Argentine BBQ) and maybe a pint or two.  It was truly amazing to meet these men, knowing what they have been through.  The story of the accident and their 10 week ordeal is tragic and triumphant, and truly difficult to fully understand.  In his review of Alive Roger Ebert said, "There are some stories you simply can't tell.  The story of the Andes survivors may be one of them."  I think he meant that there is too much tragedy and emotion to be adequately captured in a story.  And there is definitely some truth to that.  But after spending this weekend at their reunion, I would add that the story of these men cannot be told because it simply is not over yet.

Dr. Canessa is the white haired gentleman sunken deep into the sofa.

Road Trip to Punta del Este

So, apparently, Columbus Day is a holiday in all of North and South America.  Who knew?  Anyway, what does that mean for us?  Long weekend.  To celebrate the long journey of the Nina, Pinta and Santa Maria, Anne, Mark and the HBomb decided to do their own long journey over the holiday weekend to seek out riches in the land known as Punta del Este.

ROAD TRIP!!!

Although Google Maps helpfully points out that this is a 50 min flight, in the spirit of exploration, our trio made their first long road trip to get there. This entailed driving north in Argentina to Guayegualchu, crossing into Uruguay, and then driving all the way across that country.

Punta del Este is mostly known as a summer time hot spot for the cool kids of Brazil, Argentina and Uruguay.  Since we are still in spring in this part of the world, it is not quite high season, so the throngs of party people have not yet descended upon the city yet.  As such, it was a great time to visit the sights.

Anne checks out Casapueblo

The "must see" attraction at Punta del Este is a structure called Casapueblo.  Casapueblo is a sculpture/ hotel/ museum/ work of art by an artist named Carlos Paez Vilaro.  Before passing away last year, Paez Vilaro built this structure, as well made hundreds of paintings, sculptures and other works of art.  One of his sons, Carlitos Paez Rodriguez, was a survivor of the Andes plane crash in 1973 made famous in several books, including one he wrote called "After the Tenth Day," and the 1993 film "Alive."  ...but more on that in a future post.

I've seen worse places.

Anne, Mark and HBomb made it out to Casapueblo, which is located just outside of town, for dinner and a sunset.  The entire structure appears similar to the buildings in Santorini, Greece, although the artist definitely instills his own style in the various parts as well.

In addition to eating at the restaurant, touring the artist's museum, watching the sunset and generally relaxing, visitors can also stay at Casapueblo, as it is a fully functioning hotel.  We are told that all the room are different and are individually designed.

But Casapueblo is by no means the only thing to see in Punta del Este.  Anne, Mark and HBomb did a quick lap around town on their first afternoon there and saw some pretty cool stuff.  The sculpture of the hand reaching out the sand is a popular tourist site.

The cafe in the background is "the fingers" cafe.

HBomb found the fingers to be a bit dull, but was willing to let us take his picture with them.  The sculpture does have a sense of humor, however, as it even gave HBomb bunny ears.

After that we moved on to the park near the lighthouse.

Then, as the walking tour continued, our trio eventually found the water (this is a coastal town after all).  They noticed the fact that Patrick Henry must have been a big deal here, given what's written on these flags...

Libertad o muerte

They eventually made their way down to the fishermen's warf.  From there, they watched the seagulls feed on the fish parts thrown into the water by the various assorted fishmongers.  After a few minutes of fish parts flying into the bay, a monstrous sea lion joined the group.  At first it was reasonable to ask if it was, in fact, a walrus, based solely on the size of this big fella.  (After a little while, it was no longer reasonable to ask this because, you know, they are two completely different animals.)

That's a big one.

As long as we were out and about, HBomb and Mark decided to check out the ocean.  HBomb was a bit aggressive and even tried to take off his jacket to make his swim a little more fun.  Mark put the ki-bash on that, however.

Although HBomb was not happy about not being able to run into the freezing cold ocean water, eventually he got over it and had a good laugh with the old man.

Chilling in the most popular restaurant in Punta del Este.

And that's how you spend a day in Punta del Este.